Pub to Pub: The Sapperton Tunnel Trail
This Cotswold “pub crawl” begins in the village of Sapperton, a scenic 20-mile drive from Pond Cottage, with a choice of routes: via eclectic Stroud and running along the Golden Valley, or through foodie Nailsworth and climbing up over Minchinhampton Common. With so many potential Cotswold gems to enjoy en route, this little adventure is easily a day out!
The ongoing heatwave and two months without rain is exhausting for gardeners, whose efforts are now entirely focussed on trying to keep plants alive and reassuring ourselves that the crispy yellow patch that was once a lush green lawn WILL recover. As always, each cloud (if only!) has a silver lining. When the heat of the day is over, warm summer evenings are just perfect for taking long walks under bright blue, cloudless skies, followed by al fresco drinks and a bite to eat at a Cotswold pub.
This 9km walk combines both.
It is a walk that I’ve been planning to try since the newly refurbished Tunnel House Inn, sister pub to one of my favourite gourmet pubs in the Cotswolds, The Bell at Sapperton, reopened its doors in June this year following a major restoration project.
What binds these two pubs, just over an hour’s walk apart, is that they are located at either end of the Sapperton Canal Tunnel, a remarkable feat of late 18th-century engineering. Great pubs, unspoiled Cotswolds countryside and a glimpse into the area’s industrial heritage – a combination too good to miss.
The walk
Starting from The Bell Inn, an 18th-century traditional village pub, the walk heads out through the village and east along Daneway Lane before cutting down to cross the busy A419 (extreme caution required!). The route then leads into Hailey Wood, an ancient semi-natural woodland criss-crossed by footpaths and bridleways.
The woodland is part of the Bathurst Estate and, interestingly, the Earl of Bathurst also owns the freehold of both The Bell Inn and the Tunnel House, as well as much of the surrounding area.
Walking into the wood, it was interesting to ponder that around 70m below me, beneath the woodland, was the Canal Tunnel – dark, derelict and eerily silent since the last commercial traffic passed through 115 years ago.
After around 1.7km, the path emerges at the other end of Hailey Wood and leads to the Tunnel House Inn, tucked away on the right.
The Tunnel House Inn
The Inn was built in the 1780s specifically to provide accommodation, food and drink for the navvies constructing the Sapperton Tunnel. According to local historical accounts, it was also occasionally used as a makeshift mortuary following fatalities among the workforce.
The construction of the canal tunnel was a remarkable engineering endeavour for its time. Twenty-six vertical shafts were dug along its length to allow work to proceed simultaneously from multiple points, with the deepest reaching around 74 metres. The tunnel was constructed between 1784 and 1789 and, at 3.49km in length, was the longest tunnel in the world when it was built.
As there was no towpath, barges were propelled through the tunnel by men known as “leggers”, who literally walked along the tunnel walls to push the boats through. It must have been an extraordinarily demanding job.
Before enjoying the hospitality at the Tunnel House Inn, do take a look at the ornate southern portal of the tunnel, allegedly the grandest canal entrance in the country. It is certainly impressive, and is now Grade II* listed.
Once the canal was operating, the tunnel became a stopping place for boatmen, “leggers” and travellers alike.
The return route
To return to Sapperton and lunch or dinner at The Bell, you could simply retrace your steps. More interesting, however, is to follow a public footpath across the Golden Valley railway line and through a golden cornfield to Coates village, less than a kilometre away, and visit St Matthew’s Church on the edge of the village. The church has Norman origins and a 15th-century tower.
From here, the route continues across agricultural land and through the northern edge of Hailey Wood, before again surviving the A419 on the walk back to Sapperton.
For completeness, before heading to The Bell for a well-earned drink, why not drop down past the picturesque St Kenelm’s Church or follow the footpath through the village to the Frome Valley below to see the elaborate gothic Daneway portal, the entrance to the Canal Tunnel?
You can then enjoy your refreshments satisfied that the historic Sapperton Canal Tunnel box is well and truly ticked!
A little detour worth making
En route to or from Sapperton, why not take time to visit the award-winning Jolly Nice Farmshop on the main A419, just five minutes from Sapperton?
I only popped in for some emergency milk supplies and emerged an hour later after browsing their selection of locally sourced produce and artisan treats. It also has a drive-through, café and bar with a lovely relaxed atmosphere.
With an ethos based on local, ethical, seasonal, organic and regenerative produce, what’s not to like!
16th August 2026